Hector Ferguson Lake

June 2-3, 2023

Distance: 36km round-trip

Elevation gain: 883m

Time required: 14-15 hours total

My adventure to reach Hector Ferguson Lake in Golden Ears Provincial Park was definitely one for the books. It was one of those journeys that would be described as type 2 fun. If you can call it 'fun' at all.

This lake is a little known, little travelled destination in the more northern reaches of Golden Ears. It turns out its lack of popularity is for a good reason. The trail is almost completely overgrown with salmonberry and Devil's club and there are dozens of downed trees blocking your way.

I wanted to make this trip an overnighter so I first hiked to Halfmoon Beach which is a pleasant 10k hike along East Canyon trail and then through beautiful forest to reach a wide flat beach. There are grassy spots in which to pitch tents.

Edge Peak is visible on the left, with Golden Ears peak to the back right

After setting up my tent, I started on my way to Hector Ferguson Lake. I had to heavily rely on GPS to make sure I was even going in the right direction. As I mentioned above, the trail is almost completely overgrown. Due to the fallen logs, Devil's club, and salmonberry that I had to make my way through, my entire body got completely decimated. My legs especially. I was scratched on every inch of my body, bleeding profusely from a few particularly nasty cuts. But I had to keep going. I can get incredibly stubborn and in this situation, I knew I couldn't let this trail defeat me.

Finally, after almost 4 and a half hours of bushwhacking, climbing around trees, fording rivers, and getting lost more times than I can count, I made it to Hector Ferguson lake. It was incredibly underwhelming. I stayed for exactly 20 seconds to take a picture. Which, almost hilariously, I ended up accidently deleting. There remains no evidence of my hike from hell except for the permanent scars on my legs.

I knew I would be racing against day light on my way back. Just like on the way there, it was me against nature. I deepened my existing cuts and scratches and added new ones along the way. My legs were so painful that I mentally disowned them so I wouldn't have to feel the pain. I got lost again and again and again. My phone was dying. Light was fading. Mentally, it required all of my resources and skills I've gained over the years to remain calm and focused. I began to repeat mantras to myself, which is something I do when I get tired, upset, or annoyed. Some notable ones included "I'm strong and I can do this," "You've got this," "Just keep going," and "Just find the trail."

The sun set before I returned. I had to pull out my headlamp and search blindly around in the dark for the remnants of the overgrown trail. Finally, at 10pm, I burst out of the trees looking like a creature dragged up from hell. Wild-eyed, bloodied, and caked with dirt, I ran over to the river and immediately submerged my poor legs. There were two girls who had set up camp near me that looked startled and confused at seeing me and my mad dash to the river in the dark. It must have been quite the sight.

After washing myself as best as I could, I changed into pajamas and went to bed without eating dinner. I was far too tired for that. I hadn't been expecting a 12.5 hour day of hiking.

The next morning, I didn't attempt to peel off my leggings that I had changed into the previous night before hiking out. I waited until I got home for that. It was a difficult feat as they had become stuck to my legs due to the dried blood. My legs were quite a sight. I took pictures but I will spare everyone the sight of that mess.

I had my legs wrapped in gauze and bandages for days after that experience. I work outdoors and got copious amounts of comments from both coworkers and the public for weeks afterwards.

This might seem surprising given my account of the hike but I would say that it was worth it. These kind of difficult experiences are what build character and grit. Adventure is all about the unknown and how you face it. Strength is forged in the crucible of struggle. But would I do it again? Not a chance. And would I recommend it to others? Definitely not.

If anyone is considering doing Hector Ferguson Lake, keep in mind everything that I have discussed. Then make your own decision.